Dish finder in New Delhi

Spiced chickpea curry with puffed, deep-fried bread and pickled onions. A heavy Punjabi breakfast and Delhi's favourite indulgence.

Flatbreads stuffed with potato, cauliflower or paneer, fried in ghee and served with curd and pickle. Old Delhi has a whole lane of them.

Hollow crisp shells filled with potato and tangy tamarind and mint water, eaten in one bite as the vendor hands them over. Pick a busy stall.

Crisp potato patties under chickpeas, yoghurt and sweet and green chutneys. Ask for it less spicy if you need to.

Himalayan dumplings, steamed or fried, with a fierce red chilli chutney. Sold from carts at every market in the evening.

Tandoori chicken in a rich tomato, butter and cream sauce, invented in Delhi. Mop it up with butter naan.

Black lentils and kidney beans simmered overnight with butter and cream. Vegetarian and unapologetically rich.

Kidney beans in a spiced tomato gravy over rice. The Delhi home lunch, and what office canteens serve on a good day.

Cubes of fresh cheese marinated in spiced yoghurt and charred in the tandoor with peppers and onion.

Minced mutton with spices, shaped on skewers and grilled over coals. The old Mughlai kitchens around Jama Masjid are the place.

Chicken in a yoghurt and chilli marinade, roasted in a clay oven until charred at the edges, with mint chutney and onion.

Beef or mutton shank slow-cooked overnight into a thick, spiced stew, traditionally eaten at dawn in Old Delhi.

Layered rice and meat cooked sealed in the pot. Delhi's versions are milder than Hyderabad's; Old Delhi sells it by weight from huge vessels.

Pastry triangles of spiced potato and peas, fried and eaten hot with chutney and a cup of chai.

Spirals of batter fried and soaked in syrup, best straight from the pan. Sometimes eaten with rabri, a thickened milk.

Dense frozen milk flavoured with cardamom, pistachio or mango, sliced from a mould. A summer evening treat.

Milk foam whipped overnight and topped with saffron and pistachio. Only sold in Old Delhi's winter mornings, and gone by noon.