Dish finder in Madrid

Chickpeas, meats and vegetables simmered together and served in vuelcos: the noodle soup first, then the chickpeas and vegetables, then the meat. A long winter lunch.

Battered squid rings in a crusty roll, eaten standing at a bar near the Plaza Mayor. Cheap, filling and very Madrid.

Tripe stewed slowly with chorizo, morcilla and paprika until sticky. Often a ración to share in an old taberna, and better in winter.

Fried eggs broken over chips, usually with jamón or chistorra. Order one for the table.

Fried potatoes with a smoky, peppery salsa brava. Madrid's version is spicier than most; every bar claims the best.

Thick omelette of potato and egg, usually with onion, eaten in a wedge (pincho) with bread at the counter. Ask whether it comes jugosa, softly set.

Béchamel croquettes with jamón, chicken or cod. The test of a good bar; order by the unit or the ración.

Sliced and griddled crisp with garlic and paprika, a classic tapa in the bars around Sol and La Latina. Better than it sounds.

Snails in a paprika, chorizo and ham sauce, a Sunday tapa around the Rastro in La Latina.

Fresh anchovy fillets cured in vinegar with garlic and parsley. A standard vermouth-hour tapa.

Garlic, paprika and bread in broth with an egg poached in it. Castilian winter food on many menús del día.

Slow-cooked tomato, pepper, onion and courgette, often topped with a fried egg. Meat-free as served; ask if it comes with ham.

Fried dough to dip in thick hot chocolate. Porras are the fatter version. A late-night or early-morning order.

Bread soaked in milk or wine, fried and sugared. Mainly an Easter sweet, sold by every pastelería in Lent.

Small aniseed rings, plain (tontas) or iced (listas), sold for the city's patron-saint fiesta in May.