Dish finder in Ho Chi Minh City

Saigon's own plate: fractured rice grains with a grilled pork chop, shredded pork skin, a slice of egg meatloaf and sweet fish sauce. Sold from dawn until late.

Rice noodles in a clear, spiced beef broth. Southern bowls come with a plate of herbs, bean sprouts and lime to add yourself.

A light, crackly baguette with pâté, cold cuts, pickled carrot, coriander and chilli. Point at the cart's fillings; ask for không cay to skip the chilli.

Clear pork broth with chewy rice noodles, prawns, liver and minced pork. Order it khô, dry with the soup on the side, if you prefer.

Thick round noodles in a lemongrass and chilli broth with beef shank and pork. Richer and hotter than phở.

Cold rice vermicelli under charcoal-grilled pork, herbs, peanuts and fried spring rolls, dressed with fish sauce. A hot-day lunch.

A crisp turmeric-yellow crêpe filled with prawns, pork and bean sprouts. Tear it, wrap it in mustard leaves and herbs, and dip.

Rice paper rolled around prawns, pork, herbs and noodles, dipped in a hoisin and peanut sauce. Not fried.

Seasoned minced beef wrapped in wild betel leaves and grilled over charcoal, eaten with noodles and herbs.

Plastic-stool restaurants that serve a dozen kinds of snails and clams, stir-fried with tamarind, coconut or salted egg. Order several to share with beer.

Thick tapioca noodles in a glossy crab broth with crab meat and claws. Ask for a whole claw if the stall has them.

Cubes of rice cake fried crisp with egg and spring onion, served with pickled papaya and a sour soy dressing. An after-school and late-night snack.

Rice paper toasted over charcoal with quail egg, spring onion and dried shrimp, folded and eaten hot from the grill.

Buddhist vegetarian restaurants serve tofu, mushroom and vegetable dishes over rice, busiest on the 1st and 15th of the lunar month.

Cups of beans, jellies, fruit and coconut milk over crushed ice. Point at a few toppings; every stall has its own mix.