Dish finder in Athens

A ring of bread crusted with sesame, sold from carts and bakeries in the morning. Breakfast on the walk to the metro.

Filo pies filled with feta or with spinach and herbs, from every bakery. Spanakopita is the meat-free breakfast on the move.

Filo around semolina custard, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon. There is a cheese version too; ask for it with cream (me krema).

Shaved pork or chicken from the spit, wrapped in pitta with tomato, onion, tzatziki and chips. Say apo ola for everything.

Small skewers of grilled pork or chicken, ordered by the stick with bread and lemon. The cheapest good dinner in the city.

Small fried meatballs with mint and oregano, shared as a meze with ouzo or tsipouro.

Strained yoghurt with cucumber, garlic and olive oil, ordered for the table with bread at every taverna.

A smooth purée of yellow split peas, from Santorini at its best, with raw onion, capers and olive oil.

Tomatoes and peppers baked with herbed rice and potatoes. A summer lunch, and usually meat-free; ask if mince has gone in.

Tomato, cucumber, onion, olives and a slab of feta, with no lettuce. Order one for the table.

White beans in tomato and olive oil, a winter staple and a fasting dish. Meat-free as served.

Layers of aubergine, potato and spiced mince under béchamel, baked in trays. Best at a mageirio, a cook-shop where you choose from the pans.

Sun-dried octopus grilled over charcoal with oil, lemon and oregano, at a seafront ouzeri in Piraeus or the southern suburbs.

Rings of squid lightly floured and fried, with lemon. Ask whether it is fresh or frozen; both are common.

Small fried dough balls soaked in honey syrup with cinnamon and walnuts, made to order in specialist shops.