Dish finder in Phnom Penh

Freshwater fish steamed in coconut cream with kroeung, a lemongrass and turmeric paste, often in a banana-leaf cup. The national dish, and mild.

Thin pork marinated in garlic and coconut milk, grilled over charcoal and served on broken rice with pickles and a bowl of broth. Gone by mid-morning.

Rice noodles in a clear pork broth with pork, offal or seafood, topped with fried garlic. Add lime, chilli and herbs at the table.

Fresh rice noodles under a green fish curry, with raw banana flower, cucumber and herbs. Sold from baskets by morning vendors.

Stir-fried cubes of beef on lettuce and tomato with a fried egg and a lime and Kampot pepper dip. The safe first order on any Khmer menu.

Crab stir-fried with fresh green peppercorns on the stem. Best on the coast at Kep, and good at seafood restaurants in the city.

A thick soup of green papaya, pumpkin, long beans and toasted rice with pork or fish, flavoured with prahok. Home cooking at its most typical.

A tamarind-sour broth with fish or beef, water spinach, lotus root or pineapple. Eaten with rice as part of a shared meal.

Smoky charred aubergine topped with minced pork, spring onion and a sweet-salty sauce, to share with rice.

Fermented fish paste cooked with coconut cream and minced pork into a rich dip for raw vegetables. Pungent and loved; try it once.

A baguette with pâté, cold cuts or grilled meat, pickled papaya and chilli sauce, from carts across the city.

Rice porridge with fish, chicken or pork, ginger and fried garlic, with deep-fried dough sticks for dunking.

Pan-fried rice-flour cakes packed with garlic chives, crisp outside and soft inside. The cakes are meat-free; the dipping sauce usually contains fish sauce.

Little rice-flour and coconut cakes cooked in a dimpled pan over charcoal and sold in pairs, crisp underneath and soft on top.